Volcan Santa Maria, Guatemala.

camping, climbing, volcano, trekking, santiaguito, eruptions

30 minutes south of Guatemala’s second biggest metropolitan community, Quetzaltenango (or as locals call it “Xela”), lies the epic Volcán Santa Maria. At barely under 4000 meters, Santa Maria is massive, and flanked by the volcán Santiaguito that erupts with ash clouds periodically throughout the day.

Santa Maria is wide, with mild but wet weather—partially because of its elevation and proximity to the sea. The mountain is thickly vegetated all the way to the top, where a wide summit allows for plenty of space to relax after the strenuous hike.

The initial approach to Santa Maria is gradual and of relatively low difficulty, but the final ascent from the “area de descansa” (rest area) is taxing, with steep and slick footing. Two options exist for your climb from the rest area: proceed strait past or go through the alpine meadows and circle Santa Maria to approach on the east side. This trail is marked by red caution tape and is wild. The shorter, more direct trail is found on the alltrails app, simply skip the meadows and keep going up.

In true adventurer fashion, I took the alternative route and ended up sleeping on the side of a mountain after trekking for hours. There are few camping spots here, and I could camp only because I brought a hammock— but be weary of this approach because of cold and rain. The more challenging trail was especially rewarding because of an agave forest on the summit approach.

If you plan to camp bring rain gear and warm gear. You’ll need provisions from the city, and you shouldn’t count on being able to start a fire. There are some flat areas I gliding near the summit and the area de descansa, but not anywhere else.

Overall, Santa Maria is bustling with life and beautiful scenery. The trek is challenging and will push your limits, but the summit is beautiful and not too windy. On clearer days the views are spectacular, and with luck you’ll be able to watch Santiaguito spew ash clouds into the air.

Come to Santa Maria to test your capacity in steep terrain, for the reward of summiting a big mountain, and to see Santiaguito’s ash cloud eruptions. The weather is cold but mild, and if you are adventurous enough to take the alternative, longer trail you will be greatly rewarded. Just remember to provision properly!