Acatenango Volcano Hike Review and History
Mount Acatenango stands 13,004 feet (3,976) meters adjacent to the extremely active Volcan Fuego (3763 meters), and about 45 minutes outside of the tourist Mecca of Antigua, Guatemala. In February of 2022, I first hiked both mountains, and this article contains a review of what I learned about the climb, culture, and history of the place. Some original photography is included too!
A Brief History Of Antigua’s Volcanos
Although historically and geologically ancient, Acatenango only recently gained traction as a tourist destination. According to the abuelita from whom I rented a tent (she runs Barco Expeditions and gives good prices), only 20 years ago two climbers a month would try scaling the mountain. Then, the families running the village of Acatenango, named Chimaltenango, decided to open the mountain to tourism. The families formed three major tour groups, disseminating their knowledge of mountain trails and making possible a greater volume of amateur mountaineers to visit the peaks of Acatenango and Fuego. Today, the trails leading up to Acatenango are littered with tourists, my estimate being a minimum 50 a day!
Part of the reason tourist climbing has exploded in popularity the past couple of decades is that tour agencies have hauled building supplies up the mountain to create shelters against the wind. Nylon sheathes fastened with rope and zip ties to wooden platforms hang precariously on the sides of sheltered cliffs, nestled amongst trees with a great view of the fiery Volcan de Fuego. Inside the shelters are tents never disassembled, occupied by memory foam slabs and sleeping bags for freezing temperatures. And there is always a campfire come sundown!
The abuelita’s eyes shone while telling me stories about the pioneers of construction almost flying off the top of the mountain. These daring souls challenged the wind itself, refusing to let go of their building supplies-turned-sails. The abuelita waved her hands wildly describing how the mountaineers all grabbed their endangered fellow’s legs while he was midair.
The modernization of Acatenango base camps (the highest concession stand is pictured) also initially demanded loads of gasoline being manually carried uphill, as well as the completion of a new road that greatly reduced the hike upwards by several hundred meters. This new road is where buses, both public and private, now drop off and pick up trekkers. Today, there are a series of restaurants and concession stands staggered up the mountain, serving hot food like crepes and even beer and cigarettes. This climb, however challenging with its steepness and thinning oxygen is infused with modern comfort that transforms what was once a deadly environment into a grueling but friendly climb for people of many different levels of fitness.
When asking the abuelita about why Antigua’s other big volcano, Volcan de Agua (pictured w cross), is not being toured she responded that its residents did not want their lands trekked. She told me how the villagers of Volcan de Agua have their own herds, resources, and community. Many years ago a group tried to climb the mountain and were met with physical conflict that eventually led to an armed standoff. Abuelita looked relieved telling me how ultimately no one was hurt, but maintained a solemn tone.
Although Antigua has remained a tourist hub for many decades, the industry of mountain trekking seems to have taken off with the arrival of backpacking culture to augment the initial wave of retirees and old-timer trailblazers for ex-pats in Central America. The young, vital nature of backpackers propels this domestic industry, and the guides and tour companies are thriving.
Overall, the stories from this friendly, high-functioning Abuelita in Barco Expeditions were one of the highlights of being a tourist in Antigua. She was passionate, fairer in price than most, and incredibly knowledgeable because of her years in tourism, especially the years before younger demographics began frequenting Acatenango & Antigua.
Climbing Culture
When a person thinks of climbing or trekking culture usually loaded backpacks, boots,
and complexly designed wind-resistant apparel come to mind. They think of ice, tents, and danger. While this may be true climbing in places like Nepal or remote places, at Acatenango this is not the case. Most tours recommend taking a liter of water that is matched by an additional three liters the company gives you, some snacks that are complimented by three meals provided by the company, and a few layers of clothing to complement the heavy parkas for rent at each tour office.
The climbing culture here demands little but mental and physical fortitude. People fall all the time on loose gravel or because of strained, wobbly legs, but most important is getting back up. Encouragement from fellow trekkers and guides goes a long way to keeping spirits high, but your mental fortitude will be tested. I saw several bloody knees and teary faces heading down the mountain, as well as agonized faces panting for breath going up.
The culture of climbing, although relaxed on Acatenango, is still one of excruciation and great effort. Taking lightly the moisture, wind, cold temperatures, and need for sustenance would be a mistake. Climbing to over 13,000 feet and camping slightly below that in the sky is an epic endeavor for anyone less than a professional climber or athlete. Respecting the elements, your body, and knowing how to will your feet into motion are all essential to this experience.
Guides are wiley people, the type who climb circles around the tourists they accompany before getting drunk atop the mountain and rallying tourists for 4am summit climbs. Their Spanish can be in difficult accents from the backcountry, and they take comic pleasure in watching tourists suffer-although I am confident they would never let harm come to anyone on their watch. Watching them navigate the mountains constantly awed me, evoking thoughts of the Nepalese sherpas; they're incredibly skilled.
One guide ran down the mountain with me, laughing merrily the entire way. Overall, it seems like the guides live quite well. They are strong, good-humored people who love what they do. Their senses are keenly attuned to the mountain, they are kind-spirited (especially after offering us food at night), and they are well-humored. Although I chose to climb solo, there is absolutely no shame in taking the safer, more comfortable route up the mountain with a guide.
Climbing Solo
(Acatenango and Fuego at Sunset)
Before leaving for Guatemala, the plan was to climb Acatenango solo-aka three of us without a guide. We found a place to rent a tent, Barco Expeditions, and packed our own food. The tent was heavy, about 15 pounds, but it did the job for the three of us. Our food was a little scant considering how many calories we burned, but some kind guides more than compensated for our lack by giving us potatoes, hot chocolate, and refried beans. Our food stash included: two bags of rock candy, 2 bananas per person, a small loaf of bread per person, and a pound of peanuts.
Climbing up also means you need a sleeping bag, warm clothes, and a flashlight. I was a little cold in my two layers, longjohns, and water/windproof shell. Once I got in the sleeping bag, I was pretty warm other than when the ground got cold enough in the depth of night to sap my warmth. But packing a mat to sleep on would’ve prevented this.
Overall, if you decide to climb solo, go for it but be safe. We camped near a guided tour and got to warm up by their fire, eat some of their food, and follow them up to Volcan de Fuego. This wasn’t free, but it was cheaper than paying for the tour and also allowed our group to go at a pace it pleased. If you choose to climb without a guide, I highly recommend befriending a tour group for safety reasons.
Getting to the mountain if you choose to go solo, is pretty easy. For the price of 5Q you can take a school bus (called “chicken buses” locally) to the town Paramos, and from the main square catch another school bus up to the basecamp for 10Q. Be certain to tell the driver you are climbing the mountain and they will drop you directly at the trailhead! And be certain to watch the conductor who collects payments, as ours was literally climbing from the backdoor over the roof to the front door, all while the bus moved. He was incredible!
Conclusion
Acatenango is a genuine challenge of mind and body. If you are in moderately good shape, you should be able to make the climb. Many reviews say that Acatenango and Fuego were the most difficult thing they ever did, but don’t be intimidated by the hype. This is a commercial hike, super secure and safe. You might be pushed to your limits, but the trails are well marked and traversed.
Do not be afraid to hike this, just be careful and make sure you bring warm clothes!
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