"When the Master was unoccupied with business, his manner was easy, and he looked pleased" -Confucius, 7.4
Puerto is a cool place with youthful energy, but its beating heart is a special beach named Zicatela, where a long line of seafood and specialty restaurants lie north of an expansive, empty stretch of beach until the southern point, La Punta, where the hipsters and backpackers like to hang. My favorite place to eat on Zicatela is Hotel Sana Fe’s restaurant, specializing in seafood, vegetarian, and vegan dishes; their chile relleno is amazing. Or, if you’re looking for more economical options, Chester’s Cocos provides an unbeatable view with tasty sandwiches, refreshing coconuts, and more.
Sana Fe's restaurant sports a comfortable, airy palapa on the north end of Zicatela
Chester’s Cocos sports a palapa perched on the cliff, with an incredible view and constant breeze
But Zicatela is no place for the lazy swimmer accustomed to calm sea waters, just ask the surfers who brave the regularly occurring 10-foot swells. Swimming here is a challenge not only to avoid being carried out by riptides to meet the massive whitewater but also to avoid detection by the lifeguards who are wearisome from routinely rescuing the overly bold. Swimmers beware!
Although the average swimmer does not belong in Zicatela’s swell, there are still many activities to partake in here. The impressive landscape features hills, cliffs, and rocks on three sides of the beach and makes for captivating walks; there is no shortage of shade imbued lounge chairs with food and drink service, and the sunsets over the open ocean are perhaps the best I have ever seen (as an aficionado of sunsets I do not say this lightly).
After the sunset, recuperate and rehydrate with dinner before returning to Zicatela for popping nightlife in places like Xcaanda, Caña Brava, Cactus, and Playa Kabala. Reggaeton, live bands, and electronic music fill the weekend air of Zicatela until just before the sun rises, fueled by a culture of surfing, backpacking, and dancing.
Zicatela has something for almost everyone; tasty food, lounge chairs, and a spectacle of monstrous waves. My favorite time of year to visit is winter when the rain is almost nonexistent, the ocean is colder, and bugs fly in lesser volume—but for those who prefer warmer water and alleviation of occasional clouds, summer and into autumn is also a great time to visit.
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-Justin Markowitz
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